Bearded Collie
Club of NSW Inc

   
  
    
Email address contact@beardedcollieclubnsw.com

About Beardies 

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LIVING WITH BEARDIES

 

PRESENTED BY

 

The Bearded Collie Club of NSW Inc.

 

History

The Bearded Collie was originally bred in Scotland as a sheep drover, although he has also been used as a butcher's dog and also worked with dairy cattle. The breed almost disappeared toward the end of WW2 but was revived in later years by a small band of enthusiasts who bred carefully using dogs found to be still prized as workers in their native home. Today the Beardie is a popular dog in Great Britain & America and is gaining popularity elsewhere in the world.

 

 

General Characteristics

A medium sized shaggy dog, the Beardie has a long, lean body covered with long coarse hair & and a soft dense undercoat. He should have a soft, wistful expression and an exuberant but gentle disposition. He should display neither nervousness nor aggression.

 

Beardies are intelligent and quick to learn. They possess a well developed sense of humor and will do just about anything for approval, although sometimes with their own special twist! A Beardie is a family dog and will not be happy if restricted to the backyard. He is usually extremely good with children & other animals and is not by nature a fighter.

 

Height - 50-55 cm [20-22 inches]                                                                                      

                                                                                                                                                     

Weight - 20-25kg

 

Colour - Black, grey, silver, brown, fawn or tricolour with or without white markings. White should occur on the face as a blaze, on the muzzle, on the chest and forelegs and as a collar around the neck [but not behind the point of shoulder] and on the hind feet [not above the hock]. This is the ideal, maximum white allowed for a show dog however a Beardie's suitability as a pet is not affected by his colour or markings.

 

 

What to Look For ..

If you are looking for a show dog then a great deal of care should be taken in choosing the right dog. Go to shows, talk to breeders & be prepared to wait for the pup to suit you. If you are looking for a companion or obedience dog then you are looking for a dog which is sound in body & temperament. In both cases look at the parents [at least the mother] of each litter. This will give you an idea of what to expect from your pup. From the parents you should be able to judge the size your pup will grow, his probable temperament and his adult coat colour.

 

Look for a pup with free smooth movement. He or she should have a longish body and a level back. Don't be fooled by the fluffy coat - a pup may appear to be slightly high in rump but this should settle as he grows. Beardies should have a scissor bite but a level bite is tolerated. The pup you pick should appear well boned. He should have a healthy coat, bright eyes and an alert expression.

 

Choose a pup that responds readily when you talk to it. A Beardie should not appear nervous and should at least stand his ground.

 

 

Male or Female

If you are buying a pet a beardie as a pet & intend to desex him/her it makes very little difference whether you buy a male or a female. Male Beardies on the whole are not aggressive and either sex, if desexed as early as 6 months of age will develop into well adjusted adults.

 

Some people have a preference but unfortunately puppies cannot be made to order, the best pup in a litter may not be the required gender. If you do not intend to desex your Beardie, there are advantages & disadvantages to both sexes. You need to carefully consider your motives and discuss the issue with the breeder & your vet.

 

 

Development

Beardies are not mature until about 3 years old. During these first 3 years they change dramatically.

 

Puppies are born a solid colour [black, brown, blue or fawn] with white markings. Occasionally tan markings may develop a few days later. In the first 12 months they may pale out to almost white as their adult coat begins to grow [ some do , some don't ] As they get their adult coat they may look quite scruffy as they loose their puppy coat , sometimes all at once . This is quite normal and a respectable coat will grow in by the time your Beardie is 2 or 3. At 3 years old they should also be close to their adult colour although some may change colour almost their whole lives.

 

Teeth - Puppies usually begin to get adult teeth at around 16 weeks. If he had correct bite at 8 weeks he will probably have a correct bite as an adult but while teething everything will be changing and he may appear under or over shot for a short time.

 


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THE BEARDED COLLIE

         

By Cris Caird, “cuCairdeil” Bearded Collies, January 2006

 

            The Highland Collie; The ‘border’ Collie; The Scottish Mountain Collie; The Scottish Bearded Collie; The Bearded Collie; The Beardie – to name just a few of his tags!

 

            So where did he come from?  Legend would have us believe that in 1514 a ship taking grain from Poland to Scotland in exchange for Scottish sheep had on board six Polish Sheepdogs to assist in getting the new cargo on board.  The dogs’ abilities so impressed a Scottish shepherd that he offered a fine horn ram and two ewes in exchange for a pair of the dogs.  The basis for the Bearded Collie had arrived!

 

            Hogg (Ettrick Shepherd 1771-1835) had, as his favourite helper, a ‘border’ collie – a term given to sheepdogs working the border lands between Scotland and England.  Mostly these dogs stood some 24-25 inches at the shoulder and were of slate hue.  In the high lands there was a slightly smaller, very agile dog with reddish, slightly wavy coat. Hutchinson in his 1930 Dog Encyclopaedia suggests the crossing of the ‘border’ and high land dogs produced the Bearded Collie – a dog with the unique ability of an all-round sheepdog, which endeared him to shepherds, for he could be Header; Drover - driving a flock to the annual sales, a journey which would have taken many days to cover. He could ‘bunch’ the sheep by circling them; ‘eye’ them as we see in today’s working Kelpie and Border Collie. Whilst early Shepherds were interested in ability and gave little import to any uniformity in appearance, coat was of necessity a top priority for this must protect the dog in continual rain, mist and weeks on end of snow. An early Standard of around 1890 suggests “A Bearded Collie should have a thick skin with two coats, the under one furry and the outer one hard, strong, shaggy, unkempt. The legs covered right down to the feet, not bare as in the better-known Collie”.

 

            Some old breeders insisted on the dogs being self-coloured like the Scottish Deerhound.   An article in Country Life Illustrated Magazine September 1898 headed “Scottish Collies” advises the Beardie was employed for deer-hunting. This may well suggest crossing with the Deerhound occurred.  The article notes “…deer-hunting in the sense of running to a standstill the stag that has been stricken but is not dead, as the coadjutor of the stalker.  For this purpose the collie is found not only as good ‘a deal better too’.  He seems able better to carry on the chase of a single wounded stag through the herds in which he is so apt to be lost and when the wounded one breaks away from the body of the herd, the collie is often found to stick with him, where the deerhound would have been apt to go off after the rest.  Of course he is a very jolly fellow the Scotch Collie, a good friend to those he knows though his greeting is apt to be a bit too rough for the taste of the passer-by of a lonely homestead…. But there is a kindly Scotch shrewdness of eye about these nice shaggy collies that the deerhound has not, and the race in these modern days, is no longer to the swift, but to the clever.”

 

            Work and play to the clever are all one and whilst today these are his most endearing qualities, they were a headache for the farmers and butchers. Through the years as his numbers declined in the field the Beardie was seen more in the butchers’ yards.  By the early 1900s the closure of the larger butchers’ yards found this dog in very short supply – a situation which was not to change for some decades.

 

            1949 and in Scotland a Shetland Sheepdog breeder not wanting to lose an order despatches a Beardie puppy in lieu of a Sheltie!  Mrs GO Willison fell in love with Jeannie’s endearing nature. It’s interesting to note that she almost turned down the offer for Baillie as a mate for Jeannie because he stood ‘only 24 inches at the shoulder’!  Thanks are due to Mrs Willison and her band of dedicated breeders for their patience and determination to produce the Beardie as correctly as possible.

 

            There is photographic evidence of Beardies being in the Southern Hemisphere towards the end of the 1800s.  By 1929 THE AUSTRALIAN noted “..The bearded Collie lacks nothing in intelligence, is as hard as nails and a most reliable worker.  If mustering sheep he may be relied upon for a successful muster, using his head when out of sight and working on his own initiative whilst his firm and persuasive tactics when dealing with a stubborn sheep is something to be remembered.  When crossed with the Border he has left his mark and descendants of such crosses have found their way to New Zealand”. The New Zealand Border Collie Stud Register of the time has inclusions of Beardie Males and Females.

 

            So how do we view this dog today?  This is a family oriented dog with few if any vices – his only attack on an intruder would be to lick him to death!  He excels in Agility; he’s a good Endurance dog and with patience and understanding from his handler, can be a great Obedience Dog.  Thanks to members of The Bearded Collie Club of NSW Inc his great herding instincts are once again being brought to exhibition.  He’s a consistent winner in the Show Ring. 

 

            To sum up? He’s one of those special dogs which once you’ve lived with you never want to live without!

 

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                             Official Breed Standard of the Australian A.N.K.C 
                                                        BEARDED COLLIE

Pre 1987 Kennel Club, London

GENERAL APPEARANCE - A lean active dog, longer than it is high in an approximate proportion of 5-4, measured from point of chest to point of buttock. Bitches may be slightly longer. The breed, though strongly made, should show plenty of daylight under the body and should not look too heavy. A bright, enquiring expression is a distinctive feature of the breed. 

CHARACTERISTICS - The Bearded Collie should be alert, lively, self confident and active. 

TEMPERAMENT - The temperament should be that of a steady intelligent working dog, with no signs of nervousness or aggression. 

HEAD AND SKULL - The head should be in proportion to the size of the dog. The skull broad and flat and square, the distance between stop and occiput being equal to the width between the orifices of the ears. The muzzle strong and equal in length to the distance from the stop to the occiput, the whole effect being that of a dog with strength of muzzle and plenty of brain room. The stop should be moderate. The nose large and square, generally black but normally following the coat colour in blues and browns. The nose and lips should be of solid colour without spots or patches. Pigmentation of lips and eye rims should follow nose colour. 

EYES - The eyes should tone with coat in colour, be set widely apart and be large, soft and affectionate, but not protruding. The eyebrows arched up and forward but not so long as to obscure the eyes. 

EARS - The ears of medium size and drooping. When the dog is alert, the ears should lift at the base level with, but not above, the top of the skull, increasing the apparent breadth of the skull. 

MOUTH - The teeth large and white, the incisors of the lower jaw fitting tightly behind those of the upper jaw. However, a pincer bite is acceptable. 

NECK - Moderate length, muscular and slightly arched. 

FOREQUARTERS - The shoulders should slope well back; a line drawn through the centre of the shoulder blade should form a right angle (90 degrees) with the humerus. The shoulder blades at the withers should be separated only by the vertebrae but should slope outwards from there sufficiently to accommodate the desired spring of rib. Legs straight and vertical, with good bone, and covered with shaggy hair all round. Pasterns flexible without weakness. 

BODY - The length of the back should come from the length of the ribcage and not that of the loin. The back level and ribs well sprung but not barrelled. The loins should be strong and the chest deep, giving plenty of heart and lung room. 

HINDQUARTERS - Well muscled with good second thighs, well bent stifles and low hocks. The lower leg should fall at a right angle to the ground and, in normal stance, should be just behind a line vertically below the point of the buttock. 

FEET - Oval in shape with the soles well padded. The toes arched and close together, well covered with hair including the pads. 

TAIL - Set low, without kink or twist, and long enough for the end of the bone to reach at least the point of the hock. Carried low with an upward swirl at the tip whilst standing or walking, but may be extended at speed. Never carried over the back. Covered with abundant hair. 

GAIT/MOVEMENT - Movement should be supple, smooth and long reaching, covering the ground with the minimum of effort. 

COAT - Double with the undercoat soft, furry and close. Outer coat flat, harsh, strong and shaggy, free from woolliness and curl, though a slight wave is permissible. Length and density of the hair should be sufficient to provide a protective coat and to enhance the shape of the dog, but not enough to obscure the natural lines of the body. The coat must not be trimmed in any way. On the head, the bridge of the nose should be sparsely covered with hair which is slightly longer on the sides just to cover the lips. From the cheeks, the lower lips and under the chin, the coat should increase in length towards the chest, forming the typical beard.

COLOUR - Slate grey, reddish fawn, black, blue, all shades of grey, brown and sandy, with or without white markings. Where white occurs, it should only appear on the foreface, as a blaze on the skull, on the tip of the tail, on the chest, legs and feet and, if round the collar, the roots of the white hair should not extend behind the shoulder. White should not appear above the hocks on the outside of the hind legs. Slight tan markings are acceptable on the eyebrows, inside the ears, on the cheeks, under the root of the tail, and on the legs where white joins the main colour.

SIZE - Ideal height at the shoulder: 
Dogs 53-56 cm (21-22 ins) 
Bitches 51-53 cm (20-21 ins) 
Overall quality and proportions should be considered before size but excessive variation from the ideal height should be discouraged. 

FAULTS - Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree. 

NOTE - Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum. 


Working Dog Group A.N.K.C. © January 1998
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